Eataly's Cheese Slicers

I always find that cheese (and tea, for that matter) never taste as good at home. When I visit places like the Bedford Cheese Shop and the Murray's stand at Grand Central, I feel like some magic is being performed. The cheese specialist takes a glistening silver implement, rakes it across some plump white or yellow slab of deliciousness, and gives me a tempting taste. I proceed to buy a half pound or so, but never experience that same magic. At home, I clumsily gouge out a hunk with the wrong type of knife, or even (gasp) take a bite out of the uncut cheese. I know I am doing something wrong.

Yesterday, at Eataly, I happened upon a display of Paderno World Cuisine stainless-steel wire cheese cutters, parmigiano knives, and cheese slicers. I wondered if they might be the solution to my pressing cheese problem. There were two types of cheese planes, soft and regular, which were each around $19. For a second I contemplated buying both of them, but I couldn't justify it. Maybe I should talk to the cheese specialist, I thought. I went over to him, told him about my at-home cheese issue, and here is his expert advice:

"First of all, as a guy who's been working with cheese for years, I never use cheese planes. I prefer a knife. But if you must have a cheese plane, use the regular one. I would never use a cheese plane for soft cheese. Also, you're storing your cheese all wrong. Never store it in the plastic wrap it comes in. Use wax paper, or Gladware, or even tinfoil."

Thanks, Mr. Cheese Guy! Next time, I'll have to get a lesson in which mostardas go with the different cheeses.

Valley Shepherd Creamery

I can never remember the farmer's market schedules; I just know that there were certain days that I hit the cheese jackpot at the Rockefeller Center farmer's market this summer. Slowly, I put two and two together and started to realize that it was the presence of the Valley Shepherd Creamery that was so mightily satisfying. The comte with a slight crunch, the ever-changing variety of Brie (would it be the amazing sheep/cow's milk Brie that tasted so authentic, or the goat's milk?), the tins of fresh ricotta...

I did happen to notice that the last day of the Rockefeller Center Farmer's Market was September 3. But I have some exciting news for you cheese-lovers: the New Jersey-based Valley Shepherd Creamery is opening up a store on 79 Sullivan Street. Apparently the owners will be mining their cheese cave at 6 a.m. on Tuesday, making all-day preparations, and then opening this Wednesday. Now you have another reason to "say cheese."

The Plaza Food Hall

Walking into Todd English's brand-new Plaza Food Hall, I heard someone ask, "What are you in the mood for?" It wasn't a question with an easy answer. There was a sushi bar, a tapas bar, a brick oven for pizza, a cheese/charcuterie/bread/coffee/chocolate counter, a fresh seafood display a la Estiatorio Milos, an Asian dumpling bar, and a grill. Almost every seat was taken except a couple at the tapas bar, so that's where I plunked myself down. However, I was to find that every menu is available wherever one sits. (I wonder if this may change in the future, as there are plates of pesto maki flying all the way from the sushi bar to the folks ordering prime rib sliders at the other end of the room.)

I knew I wanted one of the blueberry-filled lemon meringue cupcakes I'd seen at the front, but I decided to pace myself, ordering... artichoke cacio e pepe, brandade fritters, charred octopus salad, grilled asparagus with preserved lemon zest, and lamb skewers from the tapas bar, a sweet Italian sausage pizza from the brick oven, and some crab salad rolls from the grill. (This was my only meal of the day, I swear.) For me, the standouts were: crab rolls... tons of sweet crabmeat tossed in mustardy aioli, spilling out of three toasted onion brioches; the sausage and aged provolone pizza with a marvelous, chewy crust that was not overcharred in the slightest; and the brandade fritters, which were lightly battered codfish cakes in a pool of romesco sauce and olive oil. (The one false note was the artichoke cacio e pepe, which was acrid and lacked pecorino - I think this simple dish of pasta, tossed only with black pepper and cheese, is perfect as is.) The cupcakes (chocolate grasshopper, strawberry cheesecake, and lemon meringue) were made by English's daughter; the homemade strawberry jam inside the strawberry cheesecake was a lovely surprise.

Now I'd like to go back to try the Kobe pastrami, the whole branzino, and the prime rib sliders!

(ETA: I just went back for lunch today, and I want to mention how accommodating the hosts were to my baby-in-stroller. When I'd requested outdoor seating at Sarabeth's, I was refused and told that I'd be creating a fire hazard. But when I got off the escalator and strolled into the Food Hall, a smiling lady led me to the seafood counter and let me park my City Mini right in the corner.)

The Plaza Food Hall: 1 West 59th St., Plaza Hotel, Concourse.

Terroir

Attention Terroir fans: as of last weekend, the ultra-popular wine bar is serving brunch! So you'll have another chance to grab one of the bar's coveted seats. There are four new dishes: French toast with warm maple syrup and pork sausage, bacon egg and cheese on ciabatta, a rapini-bacon frittata, and smoked salmon sandwich with capers and hard-boiled eggs.

I took my seat at the bar this past Sunday morning, anxious to try one of the new brunch items. But I was distracted by the regular menu, specifically the fried mozzarella and the white anchovy panini. All sandwiches are served on Sullivan Street Bakery bread, and while it would be almost impossible to make a mediocre sandwich with that bread, mine was particularly delicious. The crusty toasted ciabatta was splashed with a bit of balsamic, and then topped with crunchy frisee, delicately sliced hard-boiled eggs (more yolk than white), sweet pickled red onions, and marvelous white anchovies. Everything was sprinkled with a bit of black pepper (it's the details that are important!). I also devoured a bowl of parsley-and-Parmesan-dusted fried bocconcini in a hearty tomato sauce. (Next time I intend to take advantage of the charcuterie and cheese; I'm curious about a cheese with the name "Constant Bliss.")

It was too early for me to have some wine, but I enjoyed reading the funky little book of a menu - it contained a history of Chateauneuf du Pape, a large list of Rieslings with residual sugar, and a tongue-in-cheek poem entitled "Wine In A Box."

The restaurant owners, Marco Canora and Paul Grieco, have such a fixation with sherry that they serve free glasses of it from 5-6. They've also employed a designer to create a line of temporary "Jerez" tattoos! "I think I'm going to cover my entire body with them for Halloween," the bartender told me. He also informed me that there was a special bacon crumb cake dessert (I think I saw something similar to this at the Dessert Truck), but I was too full.

I find it interesting that the coasters implore the customers not to waste their food. At Terroir, how could you?

Terroir: 413 East 12th St. No phone.

Free Money!

No, a spammer didn't get a hold of my login and password (at least, not yet). The free money I'm referring to is a promotion that Picholine is running to celebrate its 15 years of operation (and counting)! Just click on this link and you'll be awarded a $50 gift certificate. I think I'll use mine for a French wine and cheese flight.

Picholine: 35 West 64th St., 212-724-8585.

Bedford Cheese Shop

Every neighborhood needs a cheese store as fabulous as Williamsburg's Bedford Cheese Shop. I fell in love with this place when the counterperson wordlessly pressed a hefty sample of Comte de Montagne into my hand. The nutty, sweet firm cheese was just what I'd been craving, and soon a quarter-pound of it was mine. (The amusing description for this lovely cheese reads: "This cheese, aged 100 meters above sea level, looks down on you and says, "I'm better than you. Way better.")

Bedford Cheese Shop offers everything from Australian feta to burrata. If you want to make sense of it all, you can purchase Steven Jenkins' Cheese Primer.

But if for some reason you're not in the mood for the cheese display, take advantage of the shelves! Check out the small but well-chosen assortment of bread (I ended up with a round potato-onion loaf), the array of Italian sausages (including sweet and hot sopressata), the jars of PB Loco's Dutch chocolate peanut butter or the candied orange-almond cookies and fig-rosemary wine flats from Red Hook's Fanciulla Foods. Today, I splurged on the aforementioned cheese, a jar of English lemon curd made with free-range eggs, a few sugarplums, some white anchovies, and pear vanilla butter from CMB Sweets!

Bedford Cheese Shop, 218 Bedford Ave., Brooklyn, (718) 599-7588.

Murray's Cheese Shop

I don't know when the stretch of Bleecker Street between Leroy and Morton turned into a mini Chelsea Market, but I imagine that the transformation occurred this fall. In November, Murray's Cheese, having bought a large building, moved across the street and soon started renting space to Amy's Bread and Wild Edibles. Now, a shopper needs several hours to fully absorb the cornucopia of deliciousness that is Bleecker Street.

Tonight, I tackled the new, improved Murray's Cheese. (Amy's and Wild Edibles, don't worry, you're next.) Although the salespeople at the old location had been generous with samples and advice, the store was so cramped that a bit of tension always hung in the air. The new store is vast and welcoming. There's even a room upstairs for cheese education!

I was greeted by an impressive assortment of chorizo and aged cheeses. The first thing that went into my bag was a hunk of Prima Donna, described as a popular Dutch cheese made with Italian cultures. I then looked to my right and noticed many different prepared foods, many involving cheese. There were mascarpone bacon tarts, cheddar onion pies, tins of macaroni and cheese, goat cheese watercress panini... I was speechless!

Walking towards the dairy case on the left, I noticed that Murray's now sells their own smoked salmon in addition to their famous horseradish cream cheese. There were containers of creme fraiche, homemade basil pesto, grillable halloumi cheese, crumbled blue Stilton, fresh mozzarella, and many other goodies. Just past the dairy case were shelves of jarred condiments. I picked up some hazelnut cream, roasted piquillo peppers, and lavender honey with mixed nuts.

Between the dairy case and the cheese case there was dried pasta in bulk, and even a selection of my favorite food: chocolate! Of course I had to pick up the box of single-bean chocolates from ten different countries.

Moving towards the cheese case, I was entranced with a black truffle-dusted Brie and a wedge of baked lemon ricotta. The cheese descriptions on the blackboard were irresistible... how could you not buy a Gruyere Vieux described as tasting "like white chocolate?" (I succumbed.)

Although I somehow resisted the Cerignola olives, I did grab a loaf of Amy's Pugliese bread. However, my shopping bag was now so heavy that I knew it was time to go.

Murray's Cheese: 254 Bleecker St., (212) 243-3289.

Artisanal

To put it mildly, choosing a suitable restaurant for my family is always a challenge. One family member is allergic to onions, peas, scallions and chives. Another’s diet consists solely of Caesar salad, steak, hamburgers and French fries. As for me, I was always the child trying to order the most exotic item on the menu, only to be met with the retort, “No, you can’t order the alligator!”

If your family is similar to mine, you will find a culinary panacea in Artisanal. Still going strong after a few years, this fromage-focused bistro will please diners both picky and adventurous. Artisanal is home to a cave containing hundreds of lovingly cared-for cheeses, a mail-order wholesale and retail cheese business, and the Artisanal Cheese Center, which offers tempting classes like “Red Wine and Cheese Pairing.”

Last night, a basket of light-as-air gougeres was consumed immediately by my relatives, one of whom exclaimed with delight, "They taste like Cheez-Its!" We then split the fondue of the day (there are several fondues available, including Classic Swiss and Stilton with Sauternes). Billed as the “100-cheese fondue,” it was actually comprised of 38 cheeses, the most prominent of which was Cheddar. The velvety, tangy dip was accented with chives and truffle oil and served with bread cubes. We also ordered the crudite for dipping, which included gherkins, carrots, and radishes. (If you want to make more of a meal out of your fondue, you can order several baigneuses such fingerling potatoes, cracked egg and air-dried beef.)

After finishing every last bite of the fondue, we sipped an excellent Sleepy Hollow Pinot Noir which had been recommended by the waiter. Then it was time for the entrees! Feeling decadent, I opted for the “fish and frites”: beer-battered catfish with caraway slaw, French fries and oniony Tartar sauce. My relatives ordered the buttery-tender filet mignon and “chicken cooked under a brick” with haricots verts and potatoes. The compression during cooking sealed all the juices inside the bird.

Dessert was a warm chocolate tart with caramel coulis and homemade orange ice cream with candied orange zest, and profiteroles with flasks of chocolate syrup and whipped cream. Although the chocolate fondue sounded tantalizing, I will have to save it for my next visit. Maybe my relatives will join me!

Artisanal, 2 Park Ave, (212) 725-8585.

Wine and Cheese

Excuse my ebullience; I am rather tipsy. A friend just introduced me to the best-kept secret in Manhattan: the $5 wine tasting at Vintage New York. This charming boutique sells New York-produced wines and cheeses. Sitting at the bar, we admired the Siamese cat and allowed our friendly host Isaiah to guide us through the vast wine list. Not content just to imbibe, we accompanied our reds and whites with award-winning Hudson Valley Camembert and Ewe's Blue from the Old Chatham Sheepherding Company. It was quite an experience to smear the buttery Camembert on slices of baguette in between sips of various wines. Isaiah was generous and threw in a free extra tasting, so I took his suggestion and ordered the refreshing Red Newt Riesling with notes of apples, lychee, and tropical fruits.

Preparing to float out of the store, I suddenly glimpsed a plate of chocolate truffles from 5th Avenue Chocolatiere. Why hadn't I noticed that before? An evening isn't complete without a bite of chocolate.

Vintage New York: 482 Broome St., (212) 226-9463. Also located at 2492 Broadway, (212) 721-9999.

Cheese, Glorious Cheese

According to this article, the average American ate more than 30 pounds of cheese last year! I am sure I influenced that figure with my cheese consumption alone. (I influenced my figure too!)

How does one satisfy these cravings the Salli Vates way?

Well, you could start your day in Little Italy by sampling the smoked fresh mozzarella at Alleva Dairy (188 Grand St., Little Italy. 212-226-7990). Then make your way to Ninth Avenue Cheese at Grand Central Market (212-370-4136), which offers a delightful selection of domestic and imported cheeses. Of particular interest to me one day was a Gjetost (a caramelized goat cheese from Norway with an intriguingly complex flavor). Norwegian mariners traditionally took this with them on long voyages, so you might want to bring some along on your strenuous outing today. I also fell head over heels for a Fromage D’Affinois Brie. There is a good selection of Spanish cheeses like Mahón and Cabrales, and many kinds of fresh goat cheese.

(Many are partial to Murray’s Cheese Shop in the Village. Although I appreciate the friendly and knowledgeable staff, I have found that their cheeses are not adequately sheltered from the elements, which include buzzing flies!)

Next, have lunch at Artisanal (2 Park Ave. @ E. 32 St. 212-725-8585). Don’t skip the fingerling potato, melted raclette and coarse salt appetizer. Artisanal lovingly tends to hundreds of cheeses in their specially built “cheese cave”.

You could then meet one of New York's most passionate advocates of raw milk cheese at Tuller (Note: This store was sold in 2007, now renamed Cobblestone Foods. There is still a wonderful cheese selection.) (199 Court St., Brooklyn. 718-222-1661). When I asked Robert Tuller which cheeses were made of raw milk, he answered, “Which aren’t?” I tasted a spicy Berger Plat and a raw milk Brie. I was also fascinated with a chevre with herbs and violets, but I will have to sample that on my next visit.

If you’d like to dine on cheese as a main course, you could try the richest dish known to mankind: paneer sautéed with ghee in a spicy tomato cream sauce, at Pongal (110 Lexington Ave. 212-696-9458), a vegetarian Indian restaurant. You probably won’t need to eat for another week, but why don’t you finish things off with a slice of ricotta cheesecake at Ferrara Bakery and Café (195 Grand St. 212-226-6150).

As a final note, I wanted to let you know that while I am writing this, I am munching on “Les Crêperolles de Pont-Aven, Fourrées au Roquefort”; small flaky tube-shaped crackers filled with creamy Roquefort cheese. Where did I buy them? Jacques Torres Chocolate Factory, a subject that merits its own journal entry.